Sports training

Climbers' antagonist and shoulder workout

Climbers' shoulders adapt to all that pulling, and coaches have long added pushing, rotator cuff and forearm-extensor work. It's traditional, untested for injury prevention, and good general strength training, which the UK's National Health Service (NHS) recommends on 2 days a week anyway. The shoulder doses mirror our shoulder mobility and stability routine; keep the bands light.

30 minBeginner13 movesA band · A dumbbell · An anchor point · A bench or boxShoulders · Back · Chest · Triceps · Forearms · Abs
Follow along: a timer, a cue and the next move, one step at a time.

Warm-up

  1. Beginner · 3D demoWork around any pinchEasier: Arm circles
  2. Intermediate · Shoulders, Back · 3D demoSlowlyEasier: Prone Y-T-W raisesHarder: Barbell rear-delt row

Push

Rest 60 to 90 s

  1. Push-up3 × 8 to 12
    Intermediate · Chest, Triceps, Shoulders · 3D demoHands on a bench (an incline push-up) if needed; stop 1 to 3 reps short of failureEasier: Wall push-upHarder: Close-grip push-up (close triceps position)
  2. Intermediate · Shoulders, Triceps · 3D demoRibs down, press in line with your earsEasier: Machine shoulder pressHarder: Behind-the-neck press

Shoulders

2 rounds · Rest 45 s between rounds

  1. Beginner · Shoulders, Back · 3D demoElbow by your sideHarder: Side-lying external rotation
  2. Intermediate · Shoulders · 3D demoVery light; elbows stay at shoulder heightEasier: Side-lying external rotationHarder: Cuban press
  3. Prone Y-T-W raises5 of each shape
    Beginner · Back, Shoulders, Neck · 3D demoForehead on a folded towelEasier: Wall angelHarder: Bent-over reverse fly
  4. Face pull12 to 15
    Intermediate · Shoulders, Back · 3D demoPull towards your forehead, thumbs backEasier: Prone Y-T-W raisesHarder: Barbell rear-delt row
  5. Beginner · Shoulders, Chest, Abs · 3D demoPause for a second at the topEasier: Dumbbell shoulder-blade punchHarder: Pike push-up

Forearms

Rest 30 s

  1. Reverse wrist curl2 × 12 to 15
    Beginner · Forearms · 3D demoLight, slow loweringEasier: Wrist-extensor eccentricsHarder: Plate pinch
  2. Beginner · Forearms · 3D demoOpen your fingers against the bandEasier: Ball squeezeHarder: Plate pinch
  3. Beginner · Forearms · 3D demoLightEasier: Wrist-extensor eccentricsHarder: Forearm plank

Trunk

  1. Side plank2 × 20 to 30 s each side
    Intermediate · Abs, Hip abductors, Shoulders · 3D demoFrom your knees (a knee side plank) if neededEasier: Knee side plankHarder: Side plank with leg lift

Tips

  • Twice a week, on lighter climbing days, and not just before a hard finger session.
  • Shoulder discomfort up to about 5 out of 10 that settles by your next session is acceptable, as our shoulder guides say. Keep forearm work to about 3 to 4 out of 10, and stop for tingling.
  • If your shoulders are very flexible or have slipped out before, keep rotations with the elbow by your side, stop short of any feeling of slipping, and leave out the Cuban rotation.
  • With golfer's elbow now, our guide says ease off weight through bent-back wrists, such as floor push-ups: do them on push-up handles or dumbbells with straight wrists, or leave them out (the swap is our suggestion).
  • One trial of a closed-chain, slow-lowering and strength programme cut shoulder injuries in student climbers, but its exercises aren't published in its summary, so this routine doesn't copy it.

The doses are suggested starting points, not a prescription. Choose a range you can control and stop for sharp or increasing pain, numbness or tingling. Get individual advice after an injury or surgery, or if you are pregnant or managing a health condition.

Guides that recommend it

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Questions people ask

How long does the climbers' antagonist and shoulder workout take?

About 30 minutes, including any warm-up and cool-down listed. Shorten it by doing fewer rounds; lengthen it by adding one.

What equipment do I need?

You need: A band, A dumbbell, An anchor point, A bench or box. Each move links to its guide, where you can find an alternative if you are missing something.

Is it suitable for beginners?

It is written for beginners. 12 of its 13 moves have an easier option listed beside them if you need one.

How do I make it easier or harder?

Use the easier or harder option listed under each move, change the number of rounds, or adjust the rest. Progress one change at a time.