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Sports training

Climbing warm-up

Warming up hasn't been shown to prevent climbing injuries, but the hangboard trials loaded the fingers gradually before every session. This takes your shoulders and hips through their range, wakes up your shoulder blades, then loads your fingers on big holds for 5, 10 and 20 seconds, as one trial's warm-up began, before 3 to 5 easy climbs.

15 minBeginner9 movesPull-up bar · A band · A stepHip abductors · Shoulders · Back · Abs · Forearms
Follow along: a timer, a cue and the next move, one step at a time.

Raise

  1. Step jack (low-impact jumping jack)2 min
    Beginner · Hip abductors, Shoulders, Calves · 3D demoOr easy traversing on big holdsEasier: Seated marchHarder: Jumping jack

Move

  1. Shoulder CARs (controlled articular rotations)3 slow circles each arm
    Beginner · 3D demoWork around any pinchEasier: Arm circles
  2. Cat-cow8 slow reps
    Beginner · Back, Abs · 3D demoOne part of your spine at a timeHarder: Half lord of the fishes (Ardha Matsyendrasana)
  3. 90/90 switch6 each side
    Intermediate · 3D demoFor high steps and turning your hip in to the wallEasier: Reclined figure four (eye of the needle, Sucirandhrasana)Harder: 90/90 hip lift-off

Wrists and fingers

  1. Wrist & forearm flow10 slow reps each direction
    Beginner · Forearms · 3D demoCircles, then palm up and palm downHarder: Wrist flexor stretch
  2. Tendon glides (hand tendon gliding exercises)1 slow round of each position
    Beginner · Forearms · 3D demoStraight, hook, full fist, flat fistHarder: Ball squeeze

Shoulder blades

  1. Scapular pull-up2 × 6
    Intermediate · Back, Shoulders, Forearms · 3D demoElbows straight; draw your shoulder blades downEasier: Assisted pull-up (machine)Harder: Pull-up
  2. Band pull-apart15
    Intermediate · Shoulders, Back · 3D demoA light bandEasier: Prone Y-T-W raisesHarder: Barbell rear-delt row

Fingers, step by step

  1. Bar hang5 s, rest, 10 s, rest, 20 s
    Intermediate · Forearms, Back, Shoulders · 3D demoOn big holds or a bar, open-handed, feet ready to take your weight. Leave it out after a recent shoulder dislocationEasier: Exercise ball pyramid drapeHarder: One-arm dead hang

Tips

  • Then climb 3 to 5 easy routes or problems, building up, and save small holds for later. One hangboard trial began each session with 15 minutes of easy climbing.
  • If you use a fingerboard or campus board, do it at the start of the session, after this warm-up: the British Mountaineering Council gives that advice for campus boards, because tiredness increases your risk of injury.
  • Under 18: no feet-off or dynamic campus boarding, as the British Mountaineering Council advises. Our suggestion is no maximal or weighted hangs either.
  • A teenager with pain on the back of a middle finger joint should stop and see a GP, who should refer urgently to a hand surgeon.
  • With golfer's elbow now, our guide says ease off hanging and long, hard gripping for a while: leave out the hangs and follow its stages.

The doses are suggested starting points, not a prescription. Choose a range you can control and stop for sharp or increasing pain, numbness or tingling. Get individual advice after an injury or surgery, or if you are pregnant or managing a health condition.

Guides that recommend it

Find more moves like these

More sports training

Injury prevention exercises for runners

Foot, calf, balance and hop exercises taken from the running trials with positive results, in a 25-minute home routine for 3 or 4 days a week.

25 minBeginner11 movesOther / check instructions, A bench or box

Plyometrics for runners

A 20-minute hop and bound session for runners: ankle bounces to pogo hops, one-leg hops and bounding, building foot contacts slowly over 10 weeks.

20 minIntermediate8 movesCardio machine

Strength workout for cyclists (gym)

A 50-minute gym session for cyclists: heavy squats, one-leg presses, hip flexion and calf raises as in the cycling trials, plus jumps for bone.

50 minIntermediate13 movesCardio machine, A barbell

Questions people ask

How long does the climbing warm-up take?

About 15 minutes, including any warm-up and cool-down listed. Shorten it by doing fewer rounds; lengthen it by adding one.

What equipment do I need?

You need: Pull-up bar, A band, A step. Each move links to its guide, where you can find an alternative if you are missing something.

Is it suitable for beginners?

It is written for beginners. 6 of its 9 moves have an easier option listed beside them if you need one.

How do I make it easier or harder?

Use the easier or harder option listed under each move, change the number of rounds, or adjust the rest. Progress one change at a time.